Most of us know that moisturizing is essential for an effective skincare routine, no matter what your skin type may be. But what many do not realize is that not all moisturizing ingredients are the same—there are actually three separate classes of moisturizers: humectants, occlusives, and emollients.
A good moisturizing product, whether it be a cream or an emulsion, will usually have some combination of all three categories of moisturizing agents in addition to other beneficial skincare ingredients. Understanding the distinctions between classes of moisturizing ingredients can make all the difference in selecting the right products for your skin type.
HUMECTANTS
Mmmm. Humectants. If I had to choose a favorite class of moisturizers, it would probably be these little workhorse hydrating molecules. Humectants have the ability to attract, absorb, and hold water from nearby sources, like the deeper layers of your skin and, in very humid climates, the air. Applying humectant ingredients to the surface layers of your skin provides much needed moisture, and because most humectant molecules have the ability to hold more than their weight and water, you'll also benefit from a short term plumping effect that visibly smooths out fine lines and lessens the intensity of deep wrinkles. Consistent use of humectant-moisturizing ingredients can also slow the development of wrinkles in the long term.
Another reason to love this category of moisturizers is that there are many humectant ingredients that also offer additional skincare benefits. Honey and aloe vera are great examples; both ingredients provide anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects in addition to their hydrating properties. Alpha-hydroxy-acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and malic acid are another great example. All of those ingredients are highly effective, naturally-derived chemical exfoliators, and they also happen to fall into the humectant category. However, it's important to use caution with AHAs—using these ingredients too frequently or at very potent levels can damage the moisture barrier, which ultimately leads to dryness—the exact opposite of what we want from our humectant ingredients. But when used properly, you get skin that's hydrated, fresh, and bright.
If you're looking for a humectant that you can really go to town with, choose a product that features mild, soothing humectant ingredients, such as aloe, honey, hyaluronic acid, or plain-old glycerin.
In the world of Korean skincare, you'll find humectant moisturizing ingredients in a broad spectrum of creams and emulsions as well as serums, essences, and ampoules. Humectant ingredients also tend to be the primary constituents found in sheet mask essences, which is why sheet masks have such instant, visible effects on the smoothness and moisture levels of the skin.
Common Humectant Ingredients:
- AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, etc.)
- Aloe vera
- Glycerin
- Honey
- Hyaluronic acid
- Soluble collagen
- Urea
- Hexylene glycol
- Butylene glycol
- Propylene glycol
- Sugar alcohols (sorbitol, glycerol, xylitol, etc.)
OCCLUSIVES
Water loss is the primary reason for dry and dehydrated skin, and is something that is experienced by most people to varying degrees. People with healthy but naturally oily skin experience less water loss because their natural oils prevent water from escaping. Those of us with dry skin produce less sebum, so water loss tends to be a bigger problem. Water loss is especially problematic for sufferers of eczema, excessive flakiness, and extra dry patches, all of which can cause water loss and worsen with dryness. It's a very frustrating spiral! Fortunately, this is where occlusive ingredients can rescue us.
Moisturizing agents that fall into the occlusive category provide moisture by creating a physical barrier over the top layer of skin that prevents water loss and therefore, prevents dryness and all of the annoying effects that come with it. If applied to dry skin, occlusive ingredients won't moisturize much on their own—though they might provide some smoothing emollient effects. The true power of occlusives are experienced when they are applied over wet skin, or in conjunction with humectant ingredients. When used in this way, occlusive ingredients help dry skin receive maximum hydration benefits by preventing the water from escaping our skin.
Common Occlusive Ingredients:
- Beeswax
- Fatty acids
- Fatty alcohols
- Lanolin
- Lecithin
- Mineral oil
- Paraffin
- Petroleum
- Plant-based butters (e.g., cocoa butter, mango butter, shea butter, etc.)
- Silicone
- Stearates (e.g., glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, etc.)
- Vegetable-based waxes
EMOLLIENTS
Emollients are moisturizing ingredients that fill in the gaps between skin cells and smooth flakes, which not only makes skin appear smoother, but also makes skin softer and increases its flexibility. Emollients also possess some occlusive properties, preventing water loss through the skin, though generally not for as long or as effectively as a true occlusive can. The most visible property that sets emollients apart from occlusives tends to be the consistency—emollients are thinner and far more spreadable than ingredients commonly categorized as occlusives.
Many emollient ingredients provide some form of skin nourishment, since a number of them are plant- or animal-based oils. Most of these oils possess antioxidants, and many also boast anti-inflammatory and even antimicrobial properties. Oils also contain fatty acids, which help to strengthen our skin's natural protective barrier. This is especially helpful for those suffering from dehydrated skin conditions.
Common Emollient Ingredients:
- Plant-based oils (e.g., almond, argan, coconut, jojoba, olive, passion fruit, rosehip, etc.)
- Animal-based oils (e.g., emu, horse, mink, etc.)
- Glycerides
- Polyisobutane
- Squalane
- Squalene
INGREDIENT GLOSSARY
There are thousands of skincare ingredients in existence. Fortunately, we don't have to know every single ingredient in existence to make good skincare decisions. A relatively small percentage of those ingredients actually appear frequently in skincare product formulas, and I've chosen to focus on more frequently seen ingredients in Korean skincare products that also bring the most value. The ingredients in this glossary all have some ability to improve and maintain skin quality, ranging from antioxidant properties, to spot-lightening abilities, to anti-aging help.
I've divided this glossary into four categories of ingredients commonly found in Korean skincare products:
- Conventional
- Experimental
- Hanbang
- UV filters
CONVENTIONAL
These are ingredients that can typically be found not only in Korean skincare products, but also in skincare formulas from all over the world. These ingredients have staying power because they've been time-tested and have some amount of scientific evidence that supports claims of efficacy for varying skin concerns.
Adenosine
Anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and assists in regulating healthy cell function.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid
A chemical compound that acts as an exfoliant, promotes cell turnover, and possesses humectant properties. Can be naturally occurring or synthetic.
Allantoin
Anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, emollient properties.
Aloe Vera
Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, humectant properties.
Anti-inflammatory, promotes collagen and elastin production.
Arbutin
A skin lightening agent derived from wheat, pears, or the bearberry plant, often used in spot lightening and brightening treatments.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
A stable form of vitamin C, which provides antioxidant, brightening, anti-acne, and anti-aging benefits.
Azelaic Acid
Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, compound used to treat acne and skin pigmentation issues.
Betaine Salicylate
A salicylic acid and betaine compound, which performs as an exfoliator as well as an anti-acne and antimicrobial agent. It’s a gentle alternative to salicylic acid, which is a highly regulated ingredient in South Korea.
BHA—Salicylic Acid
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial chemical exfoliant used to treat acne and hyperpigmentation. Can be naturally occurring or synthetic.
Caffeine
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient which can temporarily reduce redness and under-eye puffiness by constricting blood vessels.
Ceramides
Lipids that help repair and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier system.
Charcoal
Highly absorbent carbon material which absorbs excess oil and impurities, sometimes used in deep cleansing and acne treatments.
Clay
Absorbent mineral used to absorb excess oil and impurities, often used in acne and pore refining treatments.
Cocoa Butter
Antioxidant-rich, plant-derived lipid which moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Collagen
Protein with humectant properties, usually appears in the form of soluble or hydrolyzed collagen. Provides hydrating and temporary skin-plumping effects.
EGF / Oligopeptides
Peptides composed of amino acids. Anti-inflammatory, promotes collagen and elastin production.
Glycerin
Humectant ingredient that provides hydrating and a temporary skin plumping effects.
Green Tea
Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant used in anti-aging formulas as well as treatments for sensitive skin.
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant rich humectant ingredient with emollient properties, often used in formulas for treating dryness, acne, and skin irritation.
Highly effective humectant ingredient which provides hydration and temporary skin plumping effects. Sometimes appears as sodium hyaluronate.
Lactobacillus Ferment
A probiotic in the lactic acid bacteria group with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimocrobial properties.
L-ascorbic Acid
Common form of vitamin C, which provides antioxidant, brightening, anti-acne, and anti-aging benefits.
Licorice Root
Anti-inflammatory and gentle skin-lightening ingredient often used to treat redness, dullness, and skin discoloration.
Mango Seed Butter
Antioxidant-rich, pant-derived lipid which moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Morus Alba / Mulberry Extract
Antioxidant extract which contains the skin-lightening compound, arbutin. Used to treat skin discoloration.
Natto Gum
Rich antioxidant source derived from fermented soybeans.
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3, maintains and improves skin elasticity, treats and prevents acne, lightens hyperpigmentation, prevents and treats redness.
Plant-Based Oils
Plant-derived, fatty acid-rich lipids with emollient and antioxidant properties. Can also be anti-inflammatory and/or anti-microbial. Includes oils such as argan, olive, meadowfoam seed, green tea seed, sunflower, camellia, and marula.
Propolis
Resinous material produced by bees. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal, used in formulas for treating acne or irritation.
Retinoids: Retinaldehyde / Retinal, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate
A form of vitamin A with the ability to regulate cell turnover, as well as prevent and reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and acne.
Rice Bran Extract
Anti-inflammatory, vitamin E-rich, plant-derived oil, rich in fatty acids, emollient properties.
Shea Butter
Antioxidant-rich, plant-derived lipid that moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Squalene / Squalane
A lipid derived from shark liver, olives, wheat bran, rice, or sugar cane with emollient and antioxidant properties. Squalane is a more stabilized form of squalene.
Tea Tree Oil
Antimicrobial, anti-fungal essential oil, effective for treatment of mild to moderate acne.
Willow Bark Extract
Anti-inflammatory plant extract with astringent properties.
Zinc Oxide
Anti-inflammatory, mineral-derived material that can be used to sooth irritation and form a protective barrier over irritated or damaged skin. Also possesses UV protection properties.
EXPERIMENTAL
This is the fun stuff! One of the most fascinating qualities of Korean skincare is the spirit of innovation and experimentation that permeates the culture when it comes to finding new, exciting, and beneficial skincare ingredients. Most of these ingredients are so new that they are still being studied for efficacy, but many of them do show early evidence of being able to perform functions such as brightening skin and accelerating wound healing. If the idea of trying something novel excites you, or if a little bit of whimsy with your skincare sounds like just what you need to stay true to your routine, these are the ingredients to look for!
Bee Venom
Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Expedites the healing of skin damage and inhibits acne-causing bacteria. The method for collecting the bee venom does not harm or kill the bees—in fact, some beekeepers say it actually increases the rate of honey production.
Bird’s Nest
Made from nests built with the dried saliva of swiftlets. Rich in antioxidants, amino acids, and glycoprotein. Promotes healthy skin growth and stimulates skin’s natural healing process.
Caviar / Salmon Egg
Rich in vitamins, minerals, proteins, amino acids, and lipids, with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Brightens skin, reduces redness, and promotes cell turnover.
Cheese
Contains hydrating whey in addition to antioxidant vitamins A, B, and E.
Donkey Milk
Fatty acid and antioxidant rich with vitamins A, B, C, D, and E. Also contains proteins and ceramides. Provides moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects.
Egg
Contains protein, lipid and some antioxidant content. Offers temporary skin-tightening effects.
Fermented Plants & Fruits
Includes any number or combination of fermented plants, flowers, or roots. The fermentation process often uses lactobacillus, a lactic acid probiotic, as a starter. Fermentation increases antioxidant concentrations and introduces new enzymes and amino acids. Effects on the skin can include hydration, brightening, soothing, redness reduction, and promotion of healthy skin growth.
Goat Milk
Contains beneficial antioxidant vitamins A, B, and C as well as zinc, fatty acids, amino acids, and lactic acid. Provides moisture and soothing effects.
Horse Oil
Rendered horse fat with a similar fatty acid profile to human lipid composition. Easily absorbed, emollient properties as well as some anti-inflammatory effects.
Pearl
Amino acid-rich ingredient with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. Helps with collagen regeneration, redness reduction, spot lightening, and the treatment of acne.
Pig Collagen
Skin-plumping, moisturizing humectant.
Placenta
Contains antioxidants and amino acids. Usually sheep-derived, but can occasionally be cow or even human-derived. Possesses moisturizing and temporary skin plumping abilities. Some unsubstantiated anti-aging claims are linked to the hormone content of this ingredient; there is also evidence that these hormones could be harmful, even when applied topically.
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Contains hyaluronic acid, glycoprotein enzymes, allantoin, glycolic acid, and copper peptides. Stimulates production of collagen and elastin, accelerates healing of wounded and damaged skin, and provides moisturizing benefits. Methods of collection for snail mucin do not harm or kill snails.
Starfish Extract
Potentially promotes the healing of wounded or damaged skin; may also provide some brightening and spot-lightening benefits.
Syn-ake
A synthetic form of snake venom which works by temporarily weakening facial muscle movements to prevent the formation or deepening of wrinkles.
Yeast (Saccharomyces) Ferment
An extract of live yeast cells with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Can help accelerate the healing of damaged skin, reduce redness, and provide hydrating benefits.
Yogurt
Fermented dairy ingredient with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Also contains lactic acid and zinc. Provides moisturizing, redness reduction, and brightening benefits. May also aid in the healing of acne.
HANBANG
Hanbang is a popular term for Traditional Korean Medicine (TKM), which shares very similar origins, influences, and philosophies with Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). Hangbang ingredients are rooted in ancient tradition, though modern studies on the efficacy and function of the ingredients have been increasingly more common over the past few decades. These ingredients are herbal or sometimes animal-based, and are often fermented. Hanbang ingredients are especially popular in higher-end Korean skincare lines and products aimed at older woman looking for anti-aging alternatives. Interestingly, there is actually a bit of crossover between hanbang ingredients and what we now consider to be conventional skincare ingredients. In some instances, I actually had a difficult time deciding whether to classify a particular ingredient as Hanbang or conventional!
Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root (Wild Asparagus Root)
Possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties as well as amino acids. Promotes collagen synthesis and soothes irritation.
Astragalus Membranaceus Root (Astragalus Root)
Antioxidant root containing saponins and polysaccharides. Promotes the natural production of hyaluronic acid in the skin, stimulates collagen production, and contains an enzyme that helps lighten skin discolorations.
Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola)
Antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Also possesses amino acids and some fatty acids. Hastens the healing of damaged skin, stimulates collagen production, and can reduce the severity of stretch mark and keloid scar appearance.
Chrysanthellum Indicum (Golden Chamomile)
Antioxidant and powerful anti-inflammatory herb that also displays antibacterial properties. Effective for redness reduction, especially in sensitive skin. Sometimes used as a treatment for mild rosacea.
Cnidium Officinale Root (Marsh Parsley)
Antibacterial, anti-fungal, and antioxidant-rich herb. Often used in anti-aging formulas for its free radical scavenging properties. Also sometimes included in products designed to treat skin rashes, such as eczema.
Cordyceps Sinensis (Caterpillar Mushroom)
Humectant and emollient skin conditioning herb with antioxidant properties.
Ginkgo Biloba (Maidenhair Tree)
Antibacterial, anti-fungal, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory herb. Helpful for the treatment and prevention of acne, promotes blood circulation, and has also been shown to provide some supplementary protection against UV damage.
Lycium Chinense (Goji Berry)
Rich in amino acids, beta-carotene, vitamins B and C, as well as nicotinic acid. Helps stimulate collagen synthesis, and has been recently shown to have some brightening properties.
Nelumbo Nucifera (Lotus)
Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant plant with amino acids, fatty acids, as well as vitamin C and B. Stimulates blood circulation and the production of collagen. Also possesses hydrating, spot-lightening, and brightening abilities.
Panax Ginseng (Red, Fresh, White, and Wild Ginseng)
Powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Promotes healthy blood circulation, accelerates the healing of damaged skin, helps to stimulate collagen synthesis, and inhibits the formation of dark spots.
UV FILTERS
Utter the phrase “UV filter†to a photographer, and they’ll assume you’re referring to a camera accessory. Say “UV filter†to a skincare enthusiast, and they’ll know you mean sunscreen! This section is dedicated to the ingredients found in Korean sunscreens and other multifunction sun-protection products (think BB creams) that either reflect harmful UVA and UVB rays away from our skin, or provide protection by absorbing and dissipating the rays to prevent UV damage.
UV filters can be a bit of a dry topic—they’re definitely no party starters. But sun protection is hands-down the most effective way to prevent skin damage and premature aging. If it’s not already the highest priority step in your daily skincare routine, it’s time to put it on its much-deserved pedestal.
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)bornan-2-one
- 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)-dl-camphor
- Enzacamene
Amiloxate
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate
- Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate
Avobenzone
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA, though it degrades quickly in UVA light without the presence of a photostabilizer
Other names:
- 4-Tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane
- Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane
Bemotrizinol
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Anisotriazine
- Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
- Escalol® S
- Tinosorb® S
- Tinosorb® S Aqua
Bisoctrizole
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Tinosorb® M
- Milestab® 360
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Protects against:
- UVA
Other names:
- Uvinul® A Plus
Ecamsule
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Mexoryl® SX
- Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- (E)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl) prop-2-enoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester
- 2-Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate
- Eusolex® 2292
- Octinoxate
- Octyl methoxycinnamate
- Uvinul® MC80
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- Octyl triazone
- Uvinul® T 150
Octocrylene
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Uvinul® N 539T
Octyl Salicylate
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate
- 2-Ethylhexyl ester salicylic acid
- 2-Ethylhexyl ester benzoic acid
- 2-hydroxy-2-ethylhexyl ester benzoic acid
- Ethyl hexyl salicylate
- Octisalate
Oxybenzone
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
- Benzophenone-3
Padimate O
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- 2-Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
- Escalol® 507
Titanium Dioxide
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Tris-Biphenyl Triazine
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- 2,4,6-Tris (p-biphenylyl)-s-triazine
- Tinosorb® A2B
Zinc Oxide
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Z-Cote®