Princess Project conveys prom design to all Knox County young ladies
The Princess Project is a nearby charitable association that gives free prom dresses and changes to any Knox County junior or senior. The gathering additionally has authorized beauticians and cosmetics craftsmen who volunteer their administrations to help safeguard each young lady gets the full prom encounter.
Lindsay Maples, proprietor of Hair Designers and Nails, and Todd Stinnet, minister at Black Oak Heights
Baptist church, made the Princess Project.
The association takes gave formal wear and adornments and visits nearby secondary schools to ensure each young lady that might want a prom dress approaches one. Dresses are additionally accessible at Black Oak Heights Baptist church.
What Your Snot Says About Your Health
The rainbow of colors that you blow into a tissue can be an important health indicator. A cold? Allergies? Or could all of that mucus flying from your nostrils be a sign of something more serious? Your snot can be a great source to tell you what is wrong.
Not every runny nose is a bad sign. Besides being a gross annoyance when you’re sick, your mucus also plays an important part in keeping you healthy. Mucus captures dust and dirt in the air so it doesn’t go into your lungs. Another fun fact: Your body produces an average of 2 cups of mucus a day in order to keep you healthy.
Yellow/green—Congratulations, you have an infection! The green hue is caused by an enzyme produced by your white blood cells that are fighting off the infection. However, it takes more detail to determine if it’s viral or bacterial. Most acute sinus infections associated with a cold or upper respiratory infection are caused by viruses. Viral infections typically last 5 to 7 days and then start to improve. Antibiotics won’t help a viral infection, so you can’t pop a pill to get better. However, you can ease the discomfort with nasal rinses. Using a Neti Pot or sinus rinsing bottle, mix ¼ teaspoon of sea salt (or other non-iodized salt) with 1 cup of warm distilled water—this will flush out your sinuses and maintain moisture.
If the thick mucus and nasal obstruction persists beyond a week, or initially improves and then starts to get worse, it may indicate that the viral infection has progressed to a bacterial infection. Antibiotics may be helpful in shortening the duration of a bacterial sinus infection, but if your symptoms do not improve after 10 days it’s time to see a doctor for further treatment and diagnosis. It could be a sign of acute or chronic sinusitis, untreated allergies, or an infection not related to your sinuses.
Clear—If you have a runny nose with clear mucus, this is most likely caused by allergies. Allergies trigger your mucus membranes to produce histamines, which cause your cells to make more phlegm. Taking an anti-histamine will help stop excess fluid production. Saline sinus rinses are also helpful, as they flush out the allergens from your nasal passages and prevent over-drying.
Red (blood)—Finding blood in your boogers is most likely caused by dry air. Like chapped lips, the thin tissue in your nose cracks. So you need to amp up your sources of moisture. Use a saline nasal spray, and try using a humidifier in your bedroom. And your bloody nose is no cause for worry—most likely your nasal passages are too dry. You’ll notice more frequent bleeds in the winter.
Yellow/grey—Thick, rubber cement-like mucus that has this appearance may indicate you have nasal polyps. The polyps are small pearl-shaped growths most likely caused by damaged mucus membranes. Symptoms include numbness in one nostril, blockage, and loss of smell or taste. Polyps usually form from long-term swelling and irritation of nasal tissue due to allergies or asthma, and about 4 percent of people get nasal polyps, according to the Journal of Therapeutics and Clinical Risk Management. Polyps are treated with steroids—usually in a spray—or sometimes surgery is required.
Grey—If you are blowing grey chunks of debris from one side of your nose and have bad tasting nasal drainage, you could have a fungal sinus infection. These are different from viral or bacterial infections because the fungi feeds on your nasal tissue—and reproduces. Fungal sinus infections may occur due to a previous nasal injury or long-term nasal inflammation, as well as a weakened immune system. Growths called “fungus balls” develop in the cheek sinus as clumps of fungal spores. The fungus balls must be removed by surgery.
Bonus: Your snot smells. If there is very foul smelling mucus from one side and pain or fullness in the cheek sinus, this could the sign of a dental infection that has spread to the cheek sinus. While antibiotics may be helpful, the tooth most likely needs to be addressed with a root canal or extraction. A CT scan or dental X-ray could evaluate the tooth.
KOREAN MAKEUP LOOKS
SEMI-MATTE LOOK
Fear not, those of you who lived through the 90s. This is not that heavily powdered, absorbing all light and goodness around you, flat-matte look that had a resurgence lasting into the early 2000s. This matte look is much sweeter, and has a real softness to it, thanks to strategic highlighting. Really it's the best of both worlds, thanks to Korea's popular take on it. There is a really warm sultriness to this look that reminds me of old, golden-age Hollywood.
Apply a matte finish BB cream or foundation, then softly highlight around the C-zones of the orbital bone, across the forehead, and down the nose bridge. A powder highlight would work best here, but a cream or liquid applied with a light hand will work in a pinch.
Here our model is wearing:
- Missha M Perfect Cover BB cream in #27 mixed with a tiny bit of #31.
- To really showcase her flawless matte skin, there is no blush, only highlight, which was done with a very light hand (fingers actually), using the Innisfree Mineral Glow Stick (such a handy product!).
- The eyeshadow is The Face Shop Face It Styling Triple Eyes in Mocha Nuance, topped off by TonyMoly Backstage Gel Eyeliner in black, and The Face Shop Face It All About Mascara in Long Lash on the top lashes only.
- The lower lids are swiped with the golden highlight shade from the Mocha Nuance trio, and bottom mascara was skipped for a softer look.
- Her lips, which make this look so glamourous, were done with VDL Festival Lipstick (Love Mark) in Matte Intense 502 Cruz.
Fear not, those of you who lived through the 90s. This is not that heavily powdered, absorbing all light and goodness around you, flat-matte look that had a resurgence lasting into the early 2000s. This matte look is much sweeter, and has a real softness to it, thanks to strategic highlighting. Really it's the best of both worlds, thanks to Korea's popular take on it. There is a really warm sultriness to this look that reminds me of old, golden-age Hollywood.
Apply a matte finish BB cream or foundation, then softly highlight around the C-zones of the orbital bone, across the forehead, and down the nose bridge. A powder highlight would work best here, but a cream or liquid applied with a light hand will work in a pinch.
Here our model is wearing:
- Missha M Perfect Cover BB cream in #27 mixed with a tiny bit of #31.
- To really showcase her flawless matte skin, there is no blush, only highlight, which was done with a very light hand (fingers actually), using the Innisfree Mineral Glow Stick (such a handy product!).
- The eyeshadow is The Face Shop Face It Styling Triple Eyes in Mocha Nuance, topped off by TonyMoly Backstage Gel Eyeliner in black, and The Face Shop Face It All About Mascara in Long Lash on the top lashes only.
- The lower lids are swiped with the golden highlight shade from the Mocha Nuance trio, and bottom mascara was skipped for a softer look.
- Her lips, which make this look so glamourous, were done with VDL Festival Lipstick (Love Mark) in Matte Intense 502 Cruz.
This look is perfect for your next date night. It's alluring, sexy, and it absolutely smolders.
SUNRISE/SUNSET
These two looks are variations of what we see at the two most beautiful times of day, sunrise and sunset. The brilliant oranges that emerge as the sun rises into the sky, signifying a fresh new start for us all. Later, as our day comes to a close, it's almost as if the sky is celebrating all that we've accomplished, and rewards us with a light show of beautiful pinks, both dusky and bright.
I've seen a lot of pink and orange looks and makeup collections from Korea. They're so beautiful and can work on anyone. In fact, I saw looks very similar to these on a Korean beauty show. The minute I saw them I knew they could work on a much wider range of skin tones than they were demonstrated on, and I think they translated wonderfully.
Our model, Laureen, on the left is our pink sunset princess, and she's wearing:
- Missha M Cover foundation in #27 with a drop of #31 and the most important, key product to create this look, the Etude House House Precious Mineral Magic Any Cushion primer in the shade Pink. I took this primer and applied a generous layer using not the silicon puff it came with, but a flat foundation brush. I blended it into the cheeks and across the bridge of the nose, creating a soft pink wash of color.
- From there, I used The Face Shop My Lips Eat Cherry Aqua Tint both as blush and on the lips, applied with my fingers.
- The eyeshadow is from the Etude House Fantastic Color Eyes Cherry Blossom palette, and the liner is TonyMoly Backstage Gel Eyeliner in Black.
Amelie on the right is channeling the cheerful warm sunrise with her orange look.
She’s wearing:
- Missha M Cover foundation in #31.
- We used The Face Shop Lovely ME:EX Pastel Cushion Blusher in Coral for the blush.
- For the eyes we paired Clio Pro Single Shadow in shades Peony, Teeny Tiny, and Brazilian with Clio Waterproof Pen Liner in Kill Black.
- We then did a gradient on her gorgeous, full lips using Peripera Peri’s Tint Crayon in 05 Fruity Sunny.
Two gorgeous looks plucked right from the sky!
We loved the orange look so much we wanted to show you a variation of it on our model Lanny. Here we demonstrate how universally flattering orange can be. Lanny is wearing:
- Skin prepped with The Face Shop Mango Seed Glow Date-Prep Cream, followed by Peripera Watery Face Pride Up Cushion Pact in 01 Peach Beige
- We then highlighted her face with Etude House Nymph Aura Volumer for an ultra dewy look.
- Her brows were shaped with Clio Tinted Tattoo Kill Brow in Soft Brown
- Etude House Proof 10 Eye Primer was used on the lid, then L’Ocean Eyeshadow in Pastel Orange was patted directly onto the eyes with Clio Waterproof Pen Liner in Kill Black along the upper lashline. The bottom lids were lined with Clio Gelpresso Waterproof Pencil Gel Liner in 01 Beige Shine.
GWAPYEON (FRUITS CAKE)
This look reminds me of Gwapyeon, the little jellylike cakes made of fruit served on special occasions. However, you certainly don't need a special occasion to break out this simple look. Here Lea is showing how sweet simple can be!
- To give our model Lea this sweet look, we started off by prepping her skin with a fine mist of Whamisa’s Organic Flowers Olive Leaf Mist, then applying Missha’s M Magic Cushion in #21.
- Her eyebrows were filled with The Face Shop Brow Master Eyebrow Kit in Beige Brown.
- We then took 3 Concept Eyes Under Eye Flash and lined her upper and lower eyelids, putting extra emphasis on the lower lid.
- We then laid down a very thin line of brown eyeliner with TonyMoly Backstage Gel Liner.
- Her cheeks were patted with The Face Shop Lovely Me: Ex Pastel Cushion Blusher in Peach Cushion and a little bit of highlight was given with the Nature Republic Botanical Stick Highlighter in 02.
- Tying everything together is 3 Concept Eyes Creamy Lip Color in Cotton Pie.
WATERCOLOR ROSE
This look is as delicate and pretty as a rose petal. The secret to keeping things as soft as a watercolor painting is keeping every finish matte, skipping the use of eyeliner, and forgoing any highlighters.
- Here Hue Linh lets her perfect skin speak volumes with the soft matte finish of the Missha M Magic Cushion in #23, and we took the matte finish one step further by applying a light dusting of Innisfree No Sebum Mineral Powder.
- Hue Linh’s eyebrows were then filled and color softened with Holika Holika Wonder Drawing Eyebrow Kit in Natural Brow.
- We brushed TonyMoly Crystal Blusher in Pink Jubilee on the cheeks.
- Our makeup artist Chloe then buffed on TonyMoly Delight Mono Shadow Matte in #11 Vintage Coral, taking it all over and under her eyelid, making a very soft smoke.
- To give a bit of definition to the lashline without actually applying liner to the lid, Chloe tightlined the upper eyelashes with Etude House Play 101 Pencil in #50.
- It’s Skin Babyface Mascara in Long & Curling Black was applied to the upper but not lower lashes, again to maintain a watercolor softness.
- Her lips were patted with 3 Concept Eyes Lip Crayon in Blushed, and violà , an edgy but soft look fit for a queen.
NIGHT ROSE
You can also build on this look and take it from day to night with a few additions.
- Here we started with the Watercolor Rose look, added some false eyelashes, and lined the upper and lower lashes with TonyMoly Backstage Gel Liner in Black.
- We also gave a bit of highlight with the Innisfree Mineral Glow Stick around the C-zones, nose, and cupid’s bow.
- A shimmering highlight under the eyes was provided by a slick of TonyMoly Crystal Stick Eyeshadow in Champagne Pink.
- We gave a gradient lip with Clio Tension Lip in Pinkyely applied in the center of her lips, and then the outer edges of her lips were given a light coat of 3 Concept Eyes Creamy Lip Color in Rollercoaster.
AEGYO SAL
There's been a huge trend in Korea for quite some time that involves eye bags. No, not the dark unwanted visitors we get when we neglect our sleep, but instead the cute bags of fat underneath the eyes that you often see in babies and young children. These little pockets of fat are called aegyo sal in Korean, which roughly translates to “baby eye fat. As You see, almost everyone starts off life with aegyo sal, but some people lose it with age; therefore it's believed that still retaining the under-eye fat makes one more cute and youthful in appearance. There's even a popular plastic surgery in Korea to restore or create agyo sal!
Thankfully, you don't have to do something that dramatic to give yourself your own cute little baby eyes. Here we took Hue Linh after her Night Rose look and showed her how to fake the aygeo sal look with a cream-contouring product and highlighter. It's crazy simple!
- As you could see in her Night Rose look, Hue Linh doesn't have agyeo sal naturally, so we mimicked the raised look of the fat with the same TonyMoly Crystal Stick Eyeshadow in Champagne Pink we used before, just applied thicker and slightly heavier.
- We then took the Yeondukong x Memebox Easy Shading Stick in 01 Brown (a wonderful product) and applied it with a pointed liner brush, and viola! A super cute, and super easy Korean trend!
GRADIENT LIP & BLUSH
We talked about the gradient lip look in the lipstick section, well, there’s also the next level, gradient blush! This look is very fashion forward, but anyone can pull it off! Here Sarah shows us how cute a full gradient look can be.
- We started off with a neutral eye look, so that the blush and lip could take center stage. For that we used The Face Shop Face It Styling Triple Eyes in Brown Nuance and then gave a bit of highlight under the eyes by lining them with Clio’s Gelpresso Waterproof Pencil Gel Liner in Beige Shine.
- Then the fun part: we applied a two different The Face Shop Lovely Me: Ex Pastel Cushion Blusher blush colors, on the top in Rose, and on the bottom, Coral. The trick to this look is blending the two colors into each other, so you don’t have a severe 80s-style blush stripe.
- For the gradient lip we applied The Face Shop Enamel Coating Tint in 01 Red Enamel (which I absolutely love the finish of). We applied it only on the innermost part of the lip, blending slightly with our fingers, and left the rest of the lip clean.
We also have Hue Linh showing off a slightly softer take on the gradient lip & gradient blush duo.
- She's wearing a single, softly applied eyeshadow, TonyMoly Eyetone Matte in shade M04.
- She has a soft cat eye applied with Clio Waterproof Pen Liner Kill Black and her lashes are coated with It's Skin Babyface Mascara 02 Volume Setting Black.
- Her lower lids are kept soft, lined with Clio Gelpresso Waterproof Pencil Shadow in #1 Make Me Up. For the gradient blush we used TonyMoly Cristal Blusher in #10 Orange and #11 Hot Pink.
- For that perfect, soft, effortless gradient lip we had a little trick up our sleeves: the Laneige Two Tone Lip Bar, an ingenious glossy lipstick that comes with two complimentary shades in a single bar. It makes a foolproof, perfect gradient every single time. There are ten shades available; here we used a beautiful orange paired with a light salmon pink that echoes the gradient blush perfectly, shade #3 Pink Salmon.
Here we have Lea showing the Laneige Two Tone Lip Bar in shade #10 Burgundy Love. Perfect gradient, perfect color, just perfect, period.
Getting back to Sarah's original gradient look, we can take it to the next level. By simply filling in the lips with a vivid color, it can take this fun look into something a little more sexy. A small tweak can completely change this look into something less casual, making it perfect for a daytime date or anytime you want some seductive sizzle.
Here Sarah is kicking this look into high gear by applying The Face Shop Real Gloss Vivid Vibrant in Red Hommage all over the lip.
BAD GIRL
While I have you in the seductive mindset, let’s take a look at an expression of seductive with serious edge. The Bad Girl look is inspired by a K-pop video whose visuals grabbed my eye immediately the first time I saw it. The look was edgy, sexy, raw, and fierce, which is everything I love.
- To get this look we prepped Hana’s gorgeous skin with The Face Shop Mango Seed Glow Date-Prep Cream.
- We then used Missha’s M Magic Cushion in #21 on her face, followed by Nymph Aura Volumer for a sexy glow.
- We added flush to her cheeks with Three Concept Eyes Face Blush in My Muse.
- Her eyebrows were defined with the Holika Holika Wonder Drawing 24hr Auto Eyebrow in 02 Dark Brown.
- We then smoked her eyes with VDL Festival Mineral Eyes (Love Mark) in 201 Central Park, and the Pony x Memebox Shine Easy Glam palette.
- Her eyelids were given a thick, sloping line of TonyMoly Backstage Gel Liner in Black.
- We then went for maximum drama by attaching two pairs of false eyelashes to her lids, making sure to curl both pairs together with an eyelash curler beforehand.
- We then made a custom lip color for Hana’s lips using Etude House Play 101 Pencils (told ya they were versatile). We started off by filling her entire lips with shade #22, and then went over it with the dark brown shade #50.
We loved this look so much we wanted to show it on a variety of women. Here we have the beautiful Lanny, Kelly, and Amelia all rockin' the Bad Girl look, joined by their bad boy Rich.
PUPPY EYE VS. CAT EYE
The cat eye has reigned supreme since the days of the pharaohs, and it’s a cute look—it’s stuck around for a reason. But sometimes your eye shape just won’t allow for a good cat eye, or maybe you'd just like to branch out and try something a little different. If either of those is the case, why not give the puppy eye a try? The only difference between the two is the puppy eye has a slight downtick whereas the cat eye has a slight uptick. You may think that by sloping your eyeliner down it’s going to make for a drowsy look, but just the opposite is true. The puppy eye elongates and widens the eyes, giving them a rounder, more alert look.
- To get this look, line your upper lid as normal. Then go back in and start at the middle of your eye and work your way out, following the downward curve of your eye and extending a bit beyond it.
- Then bring your liner down to your lower lashes, creating a triangle shape. Fill in the triangle and there you have it, a puppy eye!
SWEET RED BEAN
My makeup is often inspired by things around me, and apparently I'm surrounded by a lot of snacks. Here we have another look inspired by an old-fashioned Korean treat. When I first opened the eyeliner that was the basis of this look, it immediately made me think of the deep red color you see when you bite into gyeongju bread. Gyeongju bread is a cute little pastry cake filled with a sweet red bean paste. Here Lanny is serving you some serious red bean smolder.
- We started off by prepping her skin with a mist of Whamisa Organic Flowers Damask Rose Petal Mist, a hydrating mist with ingredients better than most toners.
- We then applied a 3:1 mixture of VDL Lumilayer Primer with Dr. Jart+ Premium Beauty Balm SPF 45 in Light to Medium all over her face.
- Her eyebrows were filled into a straight shape with The Face Shop Brow Master Eyebrow Kit in 02 Grey Brown.
- I patted on Etude House Proof 10 Primer on her lids and then our makeup artist Chloe brushed 3 Concept Eyes Gel Eye Liner in the shade Love all over Lanny's lids. She then smudged it out with her fingers and patted on Etude House Look At My Eyes Cafe eyeshadow PK004 Deep Berry Soda to really enhance the deep red-bean color.
- Next, she tightlined the upper and lower eyelids with TonyMoly Backstage Gel Eyeliner in Black. She then used the same liner to draw a thick line on the upper lid, winging it out into a soft puppy eye. She then quickly blended the thick line on the lids before it set so that it softly faded into the eyeshadow.
- For extra oomph we topped her TonyMoly Delight Circle Lens Mascara No.1 Volume Circle coated lashes with a pair of false eyelashes. We didn't want to take the focus away from the eyes so we kept blush and lipstick to a nude minimum, sweeping Innisfree Mineral Shading #7 Sweet Vanilla on the cheeks, topping it with Innisfree Mineral Glow Stick Highlighter around the C-zones, and finishing the whole thing off with TonyMoly Kiss Lover Style Lip Stick #BE03 Coco Beige (sidenote: I would be lying if I said I didn't initially buy this lipstick because it has my name on it, haaa).
All together this made for one incredibly delicious look.
BAE BAE
There is a K-pop video that my daughter has become obsessed with, it's filled with lots of gorgeous purples, bronzes, and pink colors throughout. After being made to watch it for about the fiftieth time, I finally gave in to its charms. From there, the video's color palette stuck with me when it came time to go to the studio and shoot the looks for this book. Lea, our hazel-eyed beauty, was who I thought of immediately for this look.
- Lea's skin was prepped with spritzes of Whamisa Organic Flowers Olive Leaf Mist and Innisfree Mineral Moisture Fitting Base.
- I then applied Innisfree Eco Natural Green Tea BB Cream in shade 01.
- Her brows were filled with The Face Shop Brow Master Eyebrow Kit in 01 Beige Brown.
- I gave our makeup artist Chloe the Pony x Memebox Shine Easy Glam Eyeshadow Palette #1 and asked her to give Lea a smoky eye using the sparkling shades in the right side of the palette (the shadows on the left side has matte finishes). She used the colors Shine Gold and Glam Cocoa to give her a bronzy, shimmering look. Shine Gold was used all over the eye top and bottom and Glam Cocoa was used around the outer corners of the lower lids and softly blended into the crease. Shine Rosegold was used in the teardrop highlight.
- Her lash line was tightlined and her waterline was filled in with Etude House Play 101 Pencil in shade #50.
- TonyMoly Backstage Gel Eyeliner in Black was used to line the lids and a pair of false eyelashes were attached.
- Highlighter was applied with Innisfree Mineral Glow Stick on the C-zone, forehead, and cupid's bow.
- We gave her a sweet pink flush with The Face Shop Soft Cream Blusher in 01 Pink.
- What really makes this look exquisite is the blazing orchid shade on her lips, which was provided with my favorite lipstick in one of my favorite shades, VDL Expert Color Lip Cube in #301 Night Orchid.
When this gorgeous purple is paired with the shimmering bronze eye, it's enough to make you pass every reflective surface you can find so that you might admire how stunning you look.
Hey, bae bae! Would you like a little sweet red bean?
BLUSHING EYES
Much like George Costanza leaving the room on a high note, I’d like to leave you on this daring note. This look takes a fair amount of courage to pull-off, but once you try it, I promise you’ll like it. Even our model Hue-Linh gave me a look when I told her what we were about to do to her face, but her smile once we showed her our handiwork said it all. This look is called Blushing Eyes because we completely forgo cheek blush and leave it to the eyes to carry this look with a soft, unexpected, daring flush.
- First we prepped the skin with Nature Republic Bee Venom Mist Essence.
- We then applied VDL Lumilayer Primer all over her face followed by the Innisfree Water Glow Cushion in #23.
- Her eyebrows were filled with The Face Shop Brow Master Eyebrow Kit in 01 Beige Brown and then topped with Holika Holika Wonder Drawing 1 Sec. Finish Browcara in #4 Dark Brown.
- The eyes of this look are similar to what she wore for the soft gradient look, however this time we used VDL Expert Color Eye Book 6.4. #01. Shade Pantone 7515 Caramelize was patted all over the the lid and crease.
- A soft cat eye was applied with Clio Waterproof Pen Liner Kill Black, followed up with a coating of It's Skin Babyface Mascara 02 Volume Setting Black.
- We then added some glamour by applying a pair of false demi eyelashes to the outer corners of her lids.
- Her lower lids are kept soft, we skipped lower lash mascara and Clio Gelpresso Waterproof Pencil Shadow in #1 Make Me Up as a highlight was used in place of bottom eyeliner.
- Our makeup artist, Chloe, then used a very light, delicate hand to brush on the shade Pantone 18-1438 Marsala under the eyes, extending ever so slightly out beyond the orbital bone. The VLD + Pantone Expert Color Eye Book 6.4 is a limited edition product, but there are similar shades to be found in the TonyMoly Eyetone eyeshadow line if you can't get your hands on one.
- We wanted the lips to echo the eyes, so we did a delicate gradient lip. To keep the softness going, we started with a generous coat of Whamisa Organic Flowers Lip Moisture and topped that with Clio Tension Lip in shade 09 Pinkvely.
The soft luminous skin, unexpected uses of classic products, and innovative formulations really brings together everything I love about K-beauty. This look both symbolizes and sums up the source of my enthusiasm, and why I think K-beauty is so incredible. Korean beauty is truly extraordinary and we invite you to get on board with us and join our never-ending adventure through this thrilling industry. We thank you so much for coming with us on this journey!
KOREAN MAKEUP
I still remember my first visit to a dedicated Korean cosmetics store the phrase “like a kid in a candy store comes to mind. It was probably as close to that experience as you can have as an adult. I was a die-hard North American and European luxury cosmetics consumer and hard to impress. Having worked as a makeup artist for years and as a student of esthetics in college, cosmetics has always been a big part of my life.
Even my first real job out of high school was working at a department store cosmetics counter. By the age of twenty, I had worked my way up to counter manager for a luxury brand before quitting to become a freelance makeup artist. I had been on both sides of the makeup aisle, so to speak, and pretty much thought I’d seen and knew it all. It had been a long time since the world of cosmetics retail excited me.
Upon walking into that first Korean cosmetics store, a cheery, brightly lit space lined with gorgeously packaged goodies, I was in awe. It was exhilarating! Each shelf was teaming with products calling to me to pick them up and explore. To my delight, not only was the packaging exciting, so were the formulations. I very quickly found items that not only matched the quality of my old holy-grail favorites; they surpassed them.
Even my first real job out of high school was working at a department store cosmetics counter. By the age of twenty, I had worked my way up to counter manager for a luxury brand before quitting to become a freelance makeup artist. I had been on both sides of the makeup aisle, so to speak, and pretty much thought I’d seen and knew it all. It had been a long time since the world of cosmetics retail excited me.
Upon walking into that first Korean cosmetics store, a cheery, brightly lit space lined with gorgeously packaged goodies, I was in awe. It was exhilarating! Each shelf was teaming with products calling to me to pick them up and explore. To my delight, not only was the packaging exciting, so were the formulations. I very quickly found items that not only matched the quality of my old holy-grail favorites; they surpassed them.
SKINCARE INGREDIENTS
Selecting the right products for your skin becomes infinitely more fruitful when you understand what the ingredients are and what they do. In this section, I’ll be highlighting and describing many of the more prevalent ingredients found in skincare products and specifically, Korean skincare products.
TYPES OF MOISTURIZERS
Most of us know that moisturizing is essential for an effective skincare routine, no matter what your skin type may be. But what many do not realize is that not all moisturizing ingredients are the same—there are actually three separate classes of moisturizers: humectants, occlusives, and emollients.
A good moisturizing product, whether it be a cream or an emulsion, will usually have some combination of all three categories of moisturizing agents in addition to other beneficial skincare ingredients. Understanding the distinctions between classes of moisturizing ingredients can make all the difference in selecting the right products for your skin type.
HUMECTANTS
Mmmm. Humectants. If I had to choose a favorite class of moisturizers, it would probably be these little workhorse hydrating molecules. Humectants have the ability to attract, absorb, and hold water from nearby sources, like the deeper layers of your skin and, in very humid climates, the air. Applying humectant ingredients to the surface layers of your skin provides much needed moisture, and because most humectant molecules have the ability to hold more than their weight and water, you'll also benefit from a short term plumping effect that visibly smooths out fine lines and lessens the intensity of deep wrinkles. Consistent use of humectant-moisturizing ingredients can also slow the development of wrinkles in the long term.
Another reason to love this category of moisturizers is that there are many humectant ingredients that also offer additional skincare benefits. Honey and aloe vera are great examples; both ingredients provide anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects in addition to their hydrating properties. Alpha-hydroxy-acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and malic acid are another great example. All of those ingredients are highly effective, naturally-derived chemical exfoliators, and they also happen to fall into the humectant category. However, it's important to use caution with AHAs—using these ingredients too frequently or at very potent levels can damage the moisture barrier, which ultimately leads to dryness—the exact opposite of what we want from our humectant ingredients. But when used properly, you get skin that's hydrated, fresh, and bright.
If you're looking for a humectant that you can really go to town with, choose a product that features mild, soothing humectant ingredients, such as aloe, honey, hyaluronic acid, or plain-old glycerin.
In the world of Korean skincare, you'll find humectant moisturizing ingredients in a broad spectrum of creams and emulsions as well as serums, essences, and ampoules. Humectant ingredients also tend to be the primary constituents found in sheet mask essences, which is why sheet masks have such instant, visible effects on the smoothness and moisture levels of the skin.
Common Humectant Ingredients:
- AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, etc.)
- Aloe vera
- Glycerin
- Honey
- Hyaluronic acid
- Soluble collagen
- Urea
- Hexylene glycol
- Butylene glycol
- Propylene glycol
- Sugar alcohols (sorbitol, glycerol, xylitol, etc.)
OCCLUSIVES
Water loss is the primary reason for dry and dehydrated skin, and is something that is experienced by most people to varying degrees. People with healthy but naturally oily skin experience less water loss because their natural oils prevent water from escaping. Those of us with dry skin produce less sebum, so water loss tends to be a bigger problem. Water loss is especially problematic for sufferers of eczema, excessive flakiness, and extra dry patches, all of which can cause water loss and worsen with dryness. It's a very frustrating spiral! Fortunately, this is where occlusive ingredients can rescue us.
Moisturizing agents that fall into the occlusive category provide moisture by creating a physical barrier over the top layer of skin that prevents water loss and therefore, prevents dryness and all of the annoying effects that come with it. If applied to dry skin, occlusive ingredients won't moisturize much on their own—though they might provide some smoothing emollient effects. The true power of occlusives are experienced when they are applied over wet skin, or in conjunction with humectant ingredients. When used in this way, occlusive ingredients help dry skin receive maximum hydration benefits by preventing the water from escaping our skin.
Common Occlusive Ingredients:
- Beeswax
- Fatty acids
- Fatty alcohols
- Lanolin
- Lecithin
- Mineral oil
- Paraffin
- Petroleum
- Plant-based butters (e.g., cocoa butter, mango butter, shea butter, etc.)
- Silicone
- Stearates (e.g., glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, etc.)
- Vegetable-based waxes
EMOLLIENTS
Emollients are moisturizing ingredients that fill in the gaps between skin cells and smooth flakes, which not only makes skin appear smoother, but also makes skin softer and increases its flexibility. Emollients also possess some occlusive properties, preventing water loss through the skin, though generally not for as long or as effectively as a true occlusive can. The most visible property that sets emollients apart from occlusives tends to be the consistency—emollients are thinner and far more spreadable than ingredients commonly categorized as occlusives.
Many emollient ingredients provide some form of skin nourishment, since a number of them are plant- or animal-based oils. Most of these oils possess antioxidants, and many also boast anti-inflammatory and even antimicrobial properties. Oils also contain fatty acids, which help to strengthen our skin's natural protective barrier. This is especially helpful for those suffering from dehydrated skin conditions.
Common Emollient Ingredients:
- Plant-based oils (e.g., almond, argan, coconut, jojoba, olive, passion fruit, rosehip, etc.)
- Animal-based oils (e.g., emu, horse, mink, etc.)
- Glycerides
- Polyisobutane
- Squalane
- Squalene
Amino Acids / Peptides
Anti-inflammatory, promotes collagen and elastin production.
Arbutin
A skin lightening agent derived from wheat, pears, or the bearberry plant, often used in spot lightening and brightening treatments.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
A stable form of vitamin C, which provides antioxidant, brightening, anti-acne, and anti-aging benefits.
Azelaic Acid
Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, compound used to treat acne and skin pigmentation issues.
Betaine Salicylate
A salicylic acid and betaine compound, which performs as an exfoliator as well as an anti-acne and antimicrobial agent. It’s a gentle alternative to salicylic acid, which is a highly regulated ingredient in South Korea.
BHA—Salicylic Acid
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial chemical exfoliant used to treat acne and hyperpigmentation. Can be naturally occurring or synthetic.
Caffeine
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient which can temporarily reduce redness and under-eye puffiness by constricting blood vessels.
Ceramides
Lipids that help repair and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier system.
Charcoal
Highly absorbent carbon material which absorbs excess oil and impurities, sometimes used in deep cleansing and acne treatments.
Clay
Absorbent mineral used to absorb excess oil and impurities, often used in acne and pore refining treatments.
Cocoa Butter
Antioxidant-rich, plant-derived lipid which moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Collagen
Protein with humectant properties, usually appears in the form of soluble or hydrolyzed collagen. Provides hydrating and temporary skin-plumping effects.
EGF / Oligopeptides
Peptides composed of amino acids. Anti-inflammatory, promotes collagen and elastin production.
Glycerin
Humectant ingredient that provides hydrating and a temporary skin plumping effects.
Green Tea
Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant used in anti-aging formulas as well as treatments for sensitive skin.
Honey
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant rich humectant ingredient with emollient properties, often used in formulas for treating dryness, acne, and skin irritation.
Hyaluronic Acid
Highly effective humectant ingredient which provides hydration and temporary skin plumping effects. Sometimes appears as sodium hyaluronate.
Lactobacillus Ferment
A probiotic in the lactic acid bacteria group with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimocrobial properties.
L-ascorbic Acid
Common form of vitamin C, which provides antioxidant, brightening, anti-acne, and anti-aging benefits.
Licorice Root
Anti-inflammatory and gentle skin-lightening ingredient often used to treat redness, dullness, and skin discoloration.
Mango Seed Butter
Antioxidant-rich, pant-derived lipid which moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Morus Alba / Mulberry Extract
Antioxidant extract which contains the skin-lightening compound, arbutin. Used to treat skin discoloration.
Natto Gum
Rich antioxidant source derived from fermented soybeans.
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3, maintains and improves skin elasticity, treats and prevents acne, lightens hyperpigmentation, prevents and treats redness.
Plant-Based Oils
Plant-derived, fatty acid-rich lipids with emollient and antioxidant properties. Can also be anti-inflammatory and/or anti-microbial. Includes oils such as argan, olive, meadowfoam seed, green tea seed, sunflower, camellia, and marula.
Propolis
Resinous material produced by bees. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal, used in formulas for treating acne or irritation.
Retinoids: Retinaldehyde / Retinal, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate
A form of vitamin A with the ability to regulate cell turnover, as well as prevent and reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and acne.
Rice Bran Extract
Anti-inflammatory, vitamin E-rich, plant-derived oil, rich in fatty acids, emollient properties.
Shea Butter
Antioxidant-rich, plant-derived lipid that moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Squalene / Squalane
A lipid derived from shark liver, olives, wheat bran, rice, or sugar cane with emollient and antioxidant properties. Squalane is a more stabilized form of squalene.
Tea Tree Oil
Antimicrobial, anti-fungal essential oil, effective for treatment of mild to moderate acne.
Willow Bark Extract
Anti-inflammatory plant extract with astringent properties.
Zinc Oxide
Anti-inflammatory, mineral-derived material that can be used to sooth irritation and form a protective barrier over irritated or damaged skin. Also possesses UV protection properties.
EXPERIMENTAL
This is the fun stuff! One of the most fascinating qualities of Korean skincare is the spirit of innovation and experimentation that permeates the culture when it comes to finding new, exciting, and beneficial skincare ingredients. Most of these ingredients are so new that they are still being studied for efficacy, but many of them do show early evidence of being able to perform functions such as brightening skin and accelerating wound healing. If the idea of trying something novel excites you, or if a little bit of whimsy with your skincare sounds like just what you need to stay true to your routine, these are the ingredients to look for!
Bee Venom
Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Expedites the healing of skin damage and inhibits acne-causing bacteria. The method for collecting the bee venom does not harm or kill the bees—in fact, some beekeepers say it actually increases the rate of honey production.
Bird’s Nest
Made from nests built with the dried saliva of swiftlets. Rich in antioxidants, amino acids, and glycoprotein. Promotes healthy skin growth and stimulates skin’s natural healing process.
Caviar / Salmon Egg
Rich in vitamins, minerals, proteins, amino acids, and lipids, with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Brightens skin, reduces redness, and promotes cell turnover.
Most of us know that moisturizing is essential for an effective skincare routine, no matter what your skin type may be. But what many do not realize is that not all moisturizing ingredients are the same—there are actually three separate classes of moisturizers: humectants, occlusives, and emollients.
A good moisturizing product, whether it be a cream or an emulsion, will usually have some combination of all three categories of moisturizing agents in addition to other beneficial skincare ingredients. Understanding the distinctions between classes of moisturizing ingredients can make all the difference in selecting the right products for your skin type.
HUMECTANTS
Mmmm. Humectants. If I had to choose a favorite class of moisturizers, it would probably be these little workhorse hydrating molecules. Humectants have the ability to attract, absorb, and hold water from nearby sources, like the deeper layers of your skin and, in very humid climates, the air. Applying humectant ingredients to the surface layers of your skin provides much needed moisture, and because most humectant molecules have the ability to hold more than their weight and water, you'll also benefit from a short term plumping effect that visibly smooths out fine lines and lessens the intensity of deep wrinkles. Consistent use of humectant-moisturizing ingredients can also slow the development of wrinkles in the long term.
Another reason to love this category of moisturizers is that there are many humectant ingredients that also offer additional skincare benefits. Honey and aloe vera are great examples; both ingredients provide anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects in addition to their hydrating properties. Alpha-hydroxy-acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and malic acid are another great example. All of those ingredients are highly effective, naturally-derived chemical exfoliators, and they also happen to fall into the humectant category. However, it's important to use caution with AHAs—using these ingredients too frequently or at very potent levels can damage the moisture barrier, which ultimately leads to dryness—the exact opposite of what we want from our humectant ingredients. But when used properly, you get skin that's hydrated, fresh, and bright.
If you're looking for a humectant that you can really go to town with, choose a product that features mild, soothing humectant ingredients, such as aloe, honey, hyaluronic acid, or plain-old glycerin.
In the world of Korean skincare, you'll find humectant moisturizing ingredients in a broad spectrum of creams and emulsions as well as serums, essences, and ampoules. Humectant ingredients also tend to be the primary constituents found in sheet mask essences, which is why sheet masks have such instant, visible effects on the smoothness and moisture levels of the skin.
Common Humectant Ingredients:
- AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, etc.)
- Aloe vera
- Glycerin
- Honey
- Hyaluronic acid
- Soluble collagen
- Urea
- Hexylene glycol
- Butylene glycol
- Propylene glycol
- Sugar alcohols (sorbitol, glycerol, xylitol, etc.)
OCCLUSIVES
Water loss is the primary reason for dry and dehydrated skin, and is something that is experienced by most people to varying degrees. People with healthy but naturally oily skin experience less water loss because their natural oils prevent water from escaping. Those of us with dry skin produce less sebum, so water loss tends to be a bigger problem. Water loss is especially problematic for sufferers of eczema, excessive flakiness, and extra dry patches, all of which can cause water loss and worsen with dryness. It's a very frustrating spiral! Fortunately, this is where occlusive ingredients can rescue us.
Moisturizing agents that fall into the occlusive category provide moisture by creating a physical barrier over the top layer of skin that prevents water loss and therefore, prevents dryness and all of the annoying effects that come with it. If applied to dry skin, occlusive ingredients won't moisturize much on their own—though they might provide some smoothing emollient effects. The true power of occlusives are experienced when they are applied over wet skin, or in conjunction with humectant ingredients. When used in this way, occlusive ingredients help dry skin receive maximum hydration benefits by preventing the water from escaping our skin.
Common Occlusive Ingredients:
- Beeswax
- Fatty acids
- Fatty alcohols
- Lanolin
- Lecithin
- Mineral oil
- Paraffin
- Petroleum
- Plant-based butters (e.g., cocoa butter, mango butter, shea butter, etc.)
- Silicone
- Stearates (e.g., glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, etc.)
- Vegetable-based waxes
EMOLLIENTS
Emollients are moisturizing ingredients that fill in the gaps between skin cells and smooth flakes, which not only makes skin appear smoother, but also makes skin softer and increases its flexibility. Emollients also possess some occlusive properties, preventing water loss through the skin, though generally not for as long or as effectively as a true occlusive can. The most visible property that sets emollients apart from occlusives tends to be the consistency—emollients are thinner and far more spreadable than ingredients commonly categorized as occlusives.
Many emollient ingredients provide some form of skin nourishment, since a number of them are plant- or animal-based oils. Most of these oils possess antioxidants, and many also boast anti-inflammatory and even antimicrobial properties. Oils also contain fatty acids, which help to strengthen our skin's natural protective barrier. This is especially helpful for those suffering from dehydrated skin conditions.
Common Emollient Ingredients:
- Plant-based oils (e.g., almond, argan, coconut, jojoba, olive, passion fruit, rosehip, etc.)
- Animal-based oils (e.g., emu, horse, mink, etc.)
- Glycerides
- Polyisobutane
- Squalane
- Squalene
INGREDIENT GLOSSARY
There are thousands of skincare ingredients in existence. Fortunately, we don't have to know every single ingredient in existence to make good skincare decisions. A relatively small percentage of those ingredients actually appear frequently in skincare product formulas, and I've chosen to focus on more frequently seen ingredients in Korean skincare products that also bring the most value. The ingredients in this glossary all have some ability to improve and maintain skin quality, ranging from antioxidant properties, to spot-lightening abilities, to anti-aging help.
I've divided this glossary into four categories of ingredients commonly found in Korean skincare products:
- Conventional
- Experimental
- Hanbang
- UV filters
CONVENTIONAL
These are ingredients that can typically be found not only in Korean skincare products, but also in skincare formulas from all over the world. These ingredients have staying power because they've been time-tested and have some amount of scientific evidence that supports claims of efficacy for varying skin concerns.
Adenosine
Anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and assists in regulating healthy cell function.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid
A chemical compound that acts as an exfoliant, promotes cell turnover, and possesses humectant properties. Can be naturally occurring or synthetic.
Allantoin
Anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, emollient properties.
Aloe Vera
Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, humectant properties.
Anti-inflammatory, promotes collagen and elastin production.
Arbutin
A skin lightening agent derived from wheat, pears, or the bearberry plant, often used in spot lightening and brightening treatments.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
A stable form of vitamin C, which provides antioxidant, brightening, anti-acne, and anti-aging benefits.
Azelaic Acid
Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, compound used to treat acne and skin pigmentation issues.
Betaine Salicylate
A salicylic acid and betaine compound, which performs as an exfoliator as well as an anti-acne and antimicrobial agent. It’s a gentle alternative to salicylic acid, which is a highly regulated ingredient in South Korea.
BHA—Salicylic Acid
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial chemical exfoliant used to treat acne and hyperpigmentation. Can be naturally occurring or synthetic.
Caffeine
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient which can temporarily reduce redness and under-eye puffiness by constricting blood vessels.
Ceramides
Lipids that help repair and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier system.
Charcoal
Highly absorbent carbon material which absorbs excess oil and impurities, sometimes used in deep cleansing and acne treatments.
Clay
Absorbent mineral used to absorb excess oil and impurities, often used in acne and pore refining treatments.
Cocoa Butter
Antioxidant-rich, plant-derived lipid which moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Collagen
Protein with humectant properties, usually appears in the form of soluble or hydrolyzed collagen. Provides hydrating and temporary skin-plumping effects.
EGF / Oligopeptides
Peptides composed of amino acids. Anti-inflammatory, promotes collagen and elastin production.
Glycerin
Humectant ingredient that provides hydrating and a temporary skin plumping effects.
Green Tea
Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant used in anti-aging formulas as well as treatments for sensitive skin.
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant rich humectant ingredient with emollient properties, often used in formulas for treating dryness, acne, and skin irritation.
Highly effective humectant ingredient which provides hydration and temporary skin plumping effects. Sometimes appears as sodium hyaluronate.
Lactobacillus Ferment
A probiotic in the lactic acid bacteria group with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimocrobial properties.
L-ascorbic Acid
Common form of vitamin C, which provides antioxidant, brightening, anti-acne, and anti-aging benefits.
Licorice Root
Anti-inflammatory and gentle skin-lightening ingredient often used to treat redness, dullness, and skin discoloration.
Mango Seed Butter
Antioxidant-rich, pant-derived lipid which moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Morus Alba / Mulberry Extract
Antioxidant extract which contains the skin-lightening compound, arbutin. Used to treat skin discoloration.
Natto Gum
Rich antioxidant source derived from fermented soybeans.
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3, maintains and improves skin elasticity, treats and prevents acne, lightens hyperpigmentation, prevents and treats redness.
Plant-Based Oils
Plant-derived, fatty acid-rich lipids with emollient and antioxidant properties. Can also be anti-inflammatory and/or anti-microbial. Includes oils such as argan, olive, meadowfoam seed, green tea seed, sunflower, camellia, and marula.
Propolis
Resinous material produced by bees. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal, used in formulas for treating acne or irritation.
Retinoids: Retinaldehyde / Retinal, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate
A form of vitamin A with the ability to regulate cell turnover, as well as prevent and reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and acne.
Rice Bran Extract
Anti-inflammatory, vitamin E-rich, plant-derived oil, rich in fatty acids, emollient properties.
Shea Butter
Antioxidant-rich, plant-derived lipid that moisturizes and prevents water loss.
Squalene / Squalane
A lipid derived from shark liver, olives, wheat bran, rice, or sugar cane with emollient and antioxidant properties. Squalane is a more stabilized form of squalene.
Tea Tree Oil
Antimicrobial, anti-fungal essential oil, effective for treatment of mild to moderate acne.
Willow Bark Extract
Anti-inflammatory plant extract with astringent properties.
Zinc Oxide
Anti-inflammatory, mineral-derived material that can be used to sooth irritation and form a protective barrier over irritated or damaged skin. Also possesses UV protection properties.
EXPERIMENTAL
This is the fun stuff! One of the most fascinating qualities of Korean skincare is the spirit of innovation and experimentation that permeates the culture when it comes to finding new, exciting, and beneficial skincare ingredients. Most of these ingredients are so new that they are still being studied for efficacy, but many of them do show early evidence of being able to perform functions such as brightening skin and accelerating wound healing. If the idea of trying something novel excites you, or if a little bit of whimsy with your skincare sounds like just what you need to stay true to your routine, these are the ingredients to look for!
Bee Venom
Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Expedites the healing of skin damage and inhibits acne-causing bacteria. The method for collecting the bee venom does not harm or kill the bees—in fact, some beekeepers say it actually increases the rate of honey production.
Bird’s Nest
Made from nests built with the dried saliva of swiftlets. Rich in antioxidants, amino acids, and glycoprotein. Promotes healthy skin growth and stimulates skin’s natural healing process.
Caviar / Salmon Egg
Rich in vitamins, minerals, proteins, amino acids, and lipids, with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Brightens skin, reduces redness, and promotes cell turnover.
Cheese
Contains hydrating whey in addition to antioxidant vitamins A, B, and E.
Donkey Milk
Fatty acid and antioxidant rich with vitamins A, B, C, D, and E. Also contains proteins and ceramides. Provides moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects.
Egg
Contains protein, lipid and some antioxidant content. Offers temporary skin-tightening effects.
Fermented Plants & Fruits
Includes any number or combination of fermented plants, flowers, or roots. The fermentation process often uses lactobacillus, a lactic acid probiotic, as a starter. Fermentation increases antioxidant concentrations and introduces new enzymes and amino acids. Effects on the skin can include hydration, brightening, soothing, redness reduction, and promotion of healthy skin growth.
Goat Milk
Contains beneficial antioxidant vitamins A, B, and C as well as zinc, fatty acids, amino acids, and lactic acid. Provides moisture and soothing effects.
Horse Oil
Rendered horse fat with a similar fatty acid profile to human lipid composition. Easily absorbed, emollient properties as well as some anti-inflammatory effects.
Pearl
Amino acid-rich ingredient with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. Helps with collagen regeneration, redness reduction, spot lightening, and the treatment of acne.
Pig Collagen
Skin-plumping, moisturizing humectant.
Placenta
Contains antioxidants and amino acids. Usually sheep-derived, but can occasionally be cow or even human-derived. Possesses moisturizing and temporary skin plumping abilities. Some unsubstantiated anti-aging claims are linked to the hormone content of this ingredient; there is also evidence that these hormones could be harmful, even when applied topically.
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Contains hyaluronic acid, glycoprotein enzymes, allantoin, glycolic acid, and copper peptides. Stimulates production of collagen and elastin, accelerates healing of wounded and damaged skin, and provides moisturizing benefits. Methods of collection for snail mucin do not harm or kill snails.
Starfish Extract
Potentially promotes the healing of wounded or damaged skin; may also provide some brightening and spot-lightening benefits.
Syn-ake
A synthetic form of snake venom which works by temporarily weakening facial muscle movements to prevent the formation or deepening of wrinkles.
Yeast (Saccharomyces) Ferment
An extract of live yeast cells with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Can help accelerate the healing of damaged skin, reduce redness, and provide hydrating benefits.
Yogurt
Fermented dairy ingredient with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Also contains lactic acid and zinc. Provides moisturizing, redness reduction, and brightening benefits. May also aid in the healing of acne.
HANBANG
Hanbang is a popular term for Traditional Korean Medicine (TKM), which shares very similar origins, influences, and philosophies with Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). Hangbang ingredients are rooted in ancient tradition, though modern studies on the efficacy and function of the ingredients have been increasingly more common over the past few decades. These ingredients are herbal or sometimes animal-based, and are often fermented. Hanbang ingredients are especially popular in higher-end Korean skincare lines and products aimed at older woman looking for anti-aging alternatives. Interestingly, there is actually a bit of crossover between hanbang ingredients and what we now consider to be conventional skincare ingredients. In some instances, I actually had a difficult time deciding whether to classify a particular ingredient as Hanbang or conventional!
Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root (Wild Asparagus Root)
Possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties as well as amino acids. Promotes collagen synthesis and soothes irritation.
Astragalus Membranaceus Root (Astragalus Root)
Antioxidant root containing saponins and polysaccharides. Promotes the natural production of hyaluronic acid in the skin, stimulates collagen production, and contains an enzyme that helps lighten skin discolorations.
Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola)
Antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Also possesses amino acids and some fatty acids. Hastens the healing of damaged skin, stimulates collagen production, and can reduce the severity of stretch mark and keloid scar appearance.
Chrysanthellum Indicum (Golden Chamomile)
Antioxidant and powerful anti-inflammatory herb that also displays antibacterial properties. Effective for redness reduction, especially in sensitive skin. Sometimes used as a treatment for mild rosacea.
Cnidium Officinale Root (Marsh Parsley)
Antibacterial, anti-fungal, and antioxidant-rich herb. Often used in anti-aging formulas for its free radical scavenging properties. Also sometimes included in products designed to treat skin rashes, such as eczema.
Cordyceps Sinensis (Caterpillar Mushroom)
Humectant and emollient skin conditioning herb with antioxidant properties.
Ginkgo Biloba (Maidenhair Tree)
Antibacterial, anti-fungal, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory herb. Helpful for the treatment and prevention of acne, promotes blood circulation, and has also been shown to provide some supplementary protection against UV damage.
Lycium Chinense (Goji Berry)
Rich in amino acids, beta-carotene, vitamins B and C, as well as nicotinic acid. Helps stimulate collagen synthesis, and has been recently shown to have some brightening properties.
Nelumbo Nucifera (Lotus)
Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant plant with amino acids, fatty acids, as well as vitamin C and B. Stimulates blood circulation and the production of collagen. Also possesses hydrating, spot-lightening, and brightening abilities.
Panax Ginseng (Red, Fresh, White, and Wild Ginseng)
Powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Promotes healthy blood circulation, accelerates the healing of damaged skin, helps to stimulate collagen synthesis, and inhibits the formation of dark spots.
UV FILTERS
Utter the phrase “UV filter†to a photographer, and they’ll assume you’re referring to a camera accessory. Say “UV filter†to a skincare enthusiast, and they’ll know you mean sunscreen! This section is dedicated to the ingredients found in Korean sunscreens and other multifunction sun-protection products (think BB creams) that either reflect harmful UVA and UVB rays away from our skin, or provide protection by absorbing and dissipating the rays to prevent UV damage.
UV filters can be a bit of a dry topic—they’re definitely no party starters. But sun protection is hands-down the most effective way to prevent skin damage and premature aging. If it’s not already the highest priority step in your daily skincare routine, it’s time to put it on its much-deserved pedestal.
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)bornan-2-one
- 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)-dl-camphor
- Enzacamene
Amiloxate
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate
- Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate
Avobenzone
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA, though it degrades quickly in UVA light without the presence of a photostabilizer
Other names:
- 4-Tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane
- Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane
Bemotrizinol
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Anisotriazine
- Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
- Escalol® S
- Tinosorb® S
- Tinosorb® S Aqua
Bisoctrizole
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Tinosorb® M
- Milestab® 360
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Protects against:
- UVA
Other names:
- Uvinul® A Plus
Ecamsule
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Mexoryl® SX
- Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- (E)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl) prop-2-enoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester
- 2-Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate
- Eusolex® 2292
- Octinoxate
- Octyl methoxycinnamate
- Uvinul® MC80
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- Octyl triazone
- Uvinul® T 150
Octocrylene
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Uvinul® N 539T
Octyl Salicylate
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate
- 2-Ethylhexyl ester salicylic acid
- 2-Ethylhexyl ester benzoic acid
- 2-hydroxy-2-ethylhexyl ester benzoic acid
- Ethyl hexyl salicylate
- Octisalate
Oxybenzone
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
- Benzophenone-3
Padimate O
Protects against:
- UVB
Other names:
- 2-Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
- Escalol® 507
Titanium Dioxide
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Tris-Biphenyl Triazine
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- 2,4,6-Tris (p-biphenylyl)-s-triazine
- Tinosorb® A2B
Zinc Oxide
Protects against:
- UVB
- UVA
Other names:
- Z-Cote®
ASSESSING YOUR SKIN
In this section, I'll be walking you through the process of determining your skin type and identifying skin concerns. Assessing your skin is the first and most crucial step in building any effective skincare routine.
Your skin can change over time, so it’s important to do a skincare assessment periodically. Factors such as age, hormonal changes, lifestyle patterns, medications, medical conditions, and weather can all impact your skin, so it’s possible that products that once worked wonders for you are suddenly not meeting your needs. Season changes are a great time to reassess your skin.
SKIN TYPE
Skin type is determined by how much sebum your skin naturally produces on its own. The amount of sebum your skin produces strongly influences not only how oily your skin might appear, but also how quickly your skin loses water, and therefore, how quickly it becomes dry. Your skin type can be normal, dry, oily, or combination.
To determine your skin type, wash your face and then wait an hour. Don't apply any skincare products after washing your face—doing so will interfere with your skin's normal state, and the idea here is to get an understanding of your skinâ's moisture and oil levels when it's left to its own devices.
Once the hour is up, it's time to observe! Examine your skin, and decide which of the following profiles is your best match.
NORMAL
Normal skin is skin that is balanced in terms of moisture. It produces enough natural oil to feel smooth to the touch and retain enough water that it stays moist, but not so much oil that it can be seen on the surface. Normal skin does not necessarily mean “perfect skin,†but you tend to have fewer skin issues than many of your peers.
Your skin type is normal if:
- Your skin does not appear shiny or oily
- You skin does not feel tight or overly dry to the touch
- There are no obvious signs of flaking
- You have very few, if any, enlarged pores
- You tend to have very few acne breakouts, and those you do experience are minor
Normal skin benefits most from proper cleansing and moderate moisturizing. Hydrating toners, emulsions, and face oils are ideal for maintaining the enviable state of your skin.
DRY
Dry skin is characterized by an underproduction of sebum, which makes it less smooth to the touch and also prevents your skin from retaining the amount of water needed to keep it optimally hydrated.
Your skin type is dry if:
- Your skin feels tight
- You skin feels dry to the touch
- Your skin appears dull
- Any fine lines or wrinkles you may have appear more pronounced
Dry skin can also sometimes be indicated by:
- Flaking
- Red patches
- A textured appearance
It's important to note that sometimes people mistakenly believe they have dry skin, which is a skin type, when they are actually experiencing dehydrated skin, which is a skin concern. The difference is that dehydration is a temporary state that causes rapid water loss due to damage to the skin'™s natural protective barrier. This moisture barrier damage is generally brought on by outside factors. Additionally, it's possible (and actually common) for skin to be both dehydrated and oily. Dehydrated skin can be remedied in a few weeks and, with vigilance, kept away indefinitely once it’s repaired.
By contrast, dry skin is dry even if the natural barrier is intact, because it’s simply not producing enough sebum on its own. It is the long term state of your skin rather than a temporary condition that has a long term remedy.
Dry skin benefits most from multiple layers of hydration in the form of light, hydrating toners, humectant-based serums, and emollient face oils with a thicker, more occlusive cream layered on top to seal in the moisture.
OILY
Oily skin is characterized by an increased amount of surface oil caused by an overproduction of sebum. Oily skin tends to be visibly shiny and slick to the touch.
Your skin type is oily if:
' Your face is shiny with visible oil, especially at the end of the day
' Pores appear enlarged in some areas
' You experience frequent acne breakouts or blackheads
People with oily skin are often tempted to over cleanse with harsh, drying ingredients, or even avoid moisturizing altogether. This may seem to help in the short term, but in the long term, this can cause oiliness to worsen. These approaches make you more susceptible to a damaged moisture barrier, which would cause even more surface oil to emerge, and presents the risk of becoming a vicious cycle.
Instead of stripping skin with harsh cleansers and scrubs, switch to using an oil-based cleanser in conjunction with a gentle facial cleanser in the evening, and the same gentle facial cleanser on its own in the morning.
And don't skip out on moisturizingoily skin still needs hydration. Just avoid the heavier creams, and stick with light emulsion formulas and watery, gel-based creams. Oily skin needs more humectant moisturizers, and fewer or no occlusive moisturizers.
COMBINATION
Combination skin is oily in some areas while being dry in others. One of the most common patterns for combination skin is an oily T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) and dry cheeks, though combination skin can occur in other patterns as well. Keep in mind that minor differences in skin are normal; true combination skin has pronounced differences in oil production from one area of the face to the other.
Your skin type is combination if:
-' It's noticeably oily in some areas while dry in other areas
- Pores in oily areas are enlarged
- Oily areas are more frequently prone to blackheads and acne breakouts
- Dry areas are prone to dry, red patches or flakiness
If you have combination skin, look for products that have “balancing†in the name or description of the product. These products are designed to keep your oily areas under control without drying out the rest of your skin. Light layers of hydration are key for combination skin because they provide moisture for dry areas without weighing down oily areas. Additionally, if the differences between your dry and oily areas are extreme, it can be beneficial to use different product types on contrasting areas of the face.
SKIN CONCERNS
Skin concerns describe a condition or occurrence outside of your skin's natural moisture levels. Acne, hyperpigmentation or red marks, aging, and dehydration are all skin concerns. The best way to identify your skin concerns is to think about what struggles you’ve had with your skin consistently over the past three months. This is enough time to identify an ongoing concern and distinguish between something that needs to be addressed and something that may have been a one-off, short term issue. Short term issues should be treated as well, but when investing in an entire skincare routine, looking at the big picture will bring you the most value.
ACNE
Acne is one of the most common skin concerns, as well as one the most complex skin conditions to care for. It can affect any skin type—even dry skin—though it’s most commonly seen in oily and combination skin types. Acne can manifest as blackheads, whiteheads, closed comedones, cystic acne, or some combination of the above. While the occasional minor breakout is normal and common, those who are truly acne-prone suffer from frequent, consistent, moderate to severe breakouts.
Acne can be caused by multiple factors such as genetics, hormones (caused by pregnancy or even hormonal birth control), climate, product sensitivities, or a damaged moisture barrier.
There are a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients that treat acne symptoms. We’ll look at some of those specific ingredients when we get to building your routine. It’s important to note that some people are more responsive to certain treatments than others, so finding the right combination of ingredients to effectively combat acne can be a bit of a trial-and-error process.
Acne often occurs in conjunction with other skin concerns; hyperpigmentation and sensitivity are common additional concerns for acne sufferers.
Note: Those with moderate to severe acne should visit a dermatologist or general practitioner, as sometimes acne can be a symptom of a larger medical issue such as PCOS or another serious condition. Additionally, doctors can prescribe stronger medication such as retinoids, antibiotics, or hormone supplements for acute acne cases.
WRINKLES & FINE LINES
Aging is inevitable, therefore making wrinkles and lines the most common skin concern of all—it’s something that everyone has to contend with at some point in their lives. Some people begin to see fine lines appear in their twenties, while others may not see any significant lining until well into their forties. The rate of aging varies widely for people, and is influenced by factors such as genetics, environment, sun exposure, and lifestyle choices. Although there are many causes of aging that are out of our control, there are also a number of steps that can be taken to delay their onset or lessen their severity.
Consistent skin hydration, sun protection, and proper cleansing are key factors in delaying the onset of wrinkles. It’s ideal to begin these practices in the teen years, but it’s never too late to start. If you’re worried that you’ve missed the boat by neglecting your skin into your 20s and 30s, don’t be! You may not have had a head start, but beginning a diligent skincare routine now will certainly slow the arrival of wrinkles that may form in the future, and diminish the intensity of the lines that have already appeared. It’s far easier to prevent the signs of aging than it is to reduce them once they appear.
DEHYDRATED SKIN
Dehydrated skin is skin that is parched because of an inability to hold water. This condition happens when your skin’s natural protective barrier, often referred to as the “moisture barrier,†is damaged. Skin is composed of multiple layers, with the protective, outermost layer being the stratum corneum. This layer is also what is commonly referred to as the “moisture barrier.†It’s composed of dead, flattened cells called keratinocytes, which are continuously shed and replaced by newer keratinocytes and held together by fatty acids, ceramides, and sebum. Together, the sebum and keratinocytes act as a waterproof barrier that effectively keeps water in the skin and prevents bacteria, irritants, allergens, and other microorganisms from penetrating it. This surface layer of skin is slightly acidic, and can have a pH ranging from 4.0 to 7.0. Healthy skin tends to have a pH of 4.7 to 5.5, while higher pH levels are often accompanied by sensitivity, acne, and even eczema.
When the moisture barrier is compromised, skin is left unprotected and begins to experience water loss. This leaves skin susceptible to dryness, irritation, stinging, redness, sensitivity, and acne. Moisture barrier damage can also cause an increase in sebum production as the body tries to repair what’s been done. Additionally, the sebum your skin produces in its damaged state will be more visible on the surface, since there are more openings between cells for it to escape through when the barrier is compromised. If you’ve ever had skin that’s simultaneously dry and oily, it’s the result of a weakened moisture barrier struggling to correct itself.
There are many things that can cause damage to the moisture barrier. Common causes include:
- Overexfoliation
- Using cleansers or other skincare products with an alkaline pH (higher than 7.0).
- Cleansing too frequently or vigorously
- Sunburn
- Windburn
- Side effects of oral or topical medications
- Medical conditions
Dehydrated skin can manifest differently from person to person. Signs that your skin may be dehydrated can include:
- Extreme dryness, especially if sudden
- Sudden, pronounced appearance of wrinkles and fine lines
- Resistance to the absorption of skincare products
- The onset or an increase in skin sensitivity
- The onset or an increase in occurrences of acne breakouts, eczema, redness, flushing, or contact dermatitis
- Crepey and/or flaky patches, particularly around the eyes, nose, and tops of the cheeks
- Skin feels oily on the surface, but when touched or rubbed beneath the oil it feels thin, dry, and papery
Dehydrated skin can be frustrating to deal with, but with patience and the right skincare products, it can be easily corrected. The best remedies for dehydrated skin are gentle, low pH cleansers, and moisturizing products with humectant, emollient, and occlusive properties. The Korean skincare approach of product layering is actually quite ideal for addressing dehydrated skin, since it follows a pattern of light, hydrating layers of moisture followed by more emollient and occlusive products to seal that moisture in.
Once the moisture barrier has been repaired, many people find that other skin conditions they thought were separate concerns, such as acne and skin sensitivity, disappear as well. It can take anywhere from one to four weeks to heal a damaged barrier, so patience and consistency are important!
PH TIPS:
• Aim for cleansers that have a pH of 5.0 to 5.9 — this is the ideal range. A pH of 6.0 to 7.0 can be acceptable (pure water is 7.0, which is neutral), but lower is generally better, particularly for dehydrated or sensitive skin.
- Most cleansers don’t advertise their pH in their literature or product packaging, but you can test it at home with a pH strip. They’re very inexpensive and can be found on Amazon, eBay, or at your local drugstore.
- When measuring the pH of your cleanser at home, mix the cleanser with a bit of water. This will give you the most accurate picture of what the pH of the cleanser will be when it reaches your skin.
- If you can’t pH test at home, you can always try contacting the manufacturer and asking about the product’s pH level.
SENSITIVITY
Skin sensitivity is a complex skin concern that can be caused by a number of things. Some people have naturally sensitive skin, others may have sensitivity as a result of other skin conditions such as rosacea, allergies, a compromised moisture barrier, or as a side effect from another product in their routine (prescription retinoids, for example).
Skin sensitivity can manifest in a number of ways, including redness, flushing, or a burning sensation when certain skincare products are applied. It can also coincide with frequent contact dermatitis, eczema, or even acne. Sensitivity levels can vary widely in terms of severity.
Sensitive skin can be difficult to work around but, with patience, it’s possible to find effective products that work for you. Recommended treatments for sensitive skin include gentle, low-pH cleansers without harsh surfactants, and an avoidance of skincare products that contain fragrance or alcohol. Regular application of gentle, hydrating skincare products, and sun protection is essential for the care of sensitive skin.
DULLNESS
Dullness is exactly what it sounds like—it describes skin that lacks brightness and has a lackluster appearance. It’s often accompanied by an uneven skin texture, which only contributes to an overall drab appearance. It most commonly occurs with dry or combination skin types, and is caused by a build-up of excess dead skin cells.
Thankfully, this is a condition that is easily remedied. With exfoliation, consistent sun protection, and key skin-brightening ingredients, you can get your youthful, luminescent glow back in no time. In fact, the Korean skincare world has an insane number of products dedicated to this very purpose.
UNEVEN TONE / RED MARKS / HYPERPIGMENTATION
Uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation, and red or brown marks left behind after a pimple has disappeared are all very common skin concerns caused by an over-production of melanin in a particular area. These marks and patches can be triggered by a number of things including acne, wounds, hormonal changes (especially pregnancy), or sun damage. Forms of discoloration can affect people of all ages for a host of reasons, but for many women, uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation are the first and most visible sign of aging.
When the discoloration is caused by acne or a healed wound, it’s often referred to as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or, in some cases, post-inflammatory erythema (PIE). These types of spots can worsen if the area is picked at or if the preceding pimple was popped—so keep your hands away from that breakout, no matter how tempting it may be! PIH and PIE can also be worsened by infection, sun exposure, or additional injury to the area.
Some forms of discoloration are more easily dealt with than others, but all forms of hyperpigmentation can be improved upon and often completely remedied with the right skincare products. Many of the ingredients designed to treat dullness also do a great job lightening skin discolorations, and once again, the Korean skincare market has a lot of product ranges to offer when it comes to correcting melanin-related skin concerns.
NEXT: SKINCARE INGREDIENTS
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